Part 2 - Cairns to Cape York - from 22 Aug 2024

Map & Progress

The map below shows our path travelled in red and the path yet to be completed in green.

Blog

Laura

"Stu" owns and runs the local pub, and also provides campsites "out the back" of the pub. Stu has done a wonderful job installing new facilities that are excellent. He also provides secure lock-up for those not wanting to take a van across the rough corrugations north. So we left "Buzz" (our van) there, along with several others who had done the same before us.

Stu is the new owner of the pub after the previous owner (a mate and well respected) was taken by a croc' about 12mths ago. It's all still very raw for his mates at the pub.  They recounted that the guy had a certain log overhanging a nearby river, from which he fished for barra for 20yrs until one day, the croc' was there and grabbed him. There is a very respectful memorial to him outside the pub and photos of him inside too. It's a stark reminder to never become complacent of crocs. They are so fast, lurk unseen in murky water and the results are simply devastating. 

Musgrave Road House

Moreton Telegraph Station

We camped in our swag here overnight on gorgeous green grass under one of their many mango trees. To keep the grass green, takes quite some effort to maintain considering it is an incredibly dry zone. The grounds crew do a wonderful job.  For our first night in the SWAG under our Car's awning, we had a very comfy night sleep.

The Station boasts about a 2.5 k circuit walk around the Station. One of the drawcards for visitors staying at the Station, is the "Barra Hole". This is supposed to have barramundi in it. We suspect, the barra has been (long-ago) caught and probably eaten. The station can't bring themselves to rename it to the "No-barra-left Hole".

The amenities were quite ordinary too with near-communal showers. They come with a common 'get-naked area', then a shower curtain between you and fellow campers for the shower itself. Very strange and not expected.

The staff member who greeted us at reception was grumpy to 'chelle on our arrival. 'chelle always presents her million-dollar smile, and her charm at every greeting, so for that old cheese to be grumpy, is saying something! The rest of the staff were lovely. A real shame it was just the one grumpy-bum who ruined their image.

No drone footage because the station's airstrip made it a no-fly zone.

Fruit Bat Falls

In a word - Wow! These falls are just incredible. They'd have to be the most idyllic falls one could ever swim in. Being shaped much like a fruit bat, the falls took on this name. The water is plentiful and crystal clear.  What seems to be spring fed, the water runs down river to the falls, bubbles over a 100m long stretch of rock shelf with some large rock pools to bathe in. Leaving that rock plateau, it runs over the falls, offering a beautiful shoulder massage for those standing under the falling water. A veritable oasis in the dusty desert. 

The warning signs announce the risk of croc's ("snapping handbags" as they call them up here), but it stopped no-one from taking a dip. With the water crystal clear, we'd be well warned of large sabre-toothed lizards before they reached us. So worth it.

Jardine River

Leaving Fruit Bat Falls, we had no concrete plans on where to stay the night so we "winged it". We were delighted (and relieved) to find a very nice spot on the south side of the Jardine River Ferry Crossing - an old caravan park - now empty and no-one around to manage it, but the park water taps still provided water, the amenities block open for "business"!  No signs, no obvious "Do's or Don'ts" or where to pay, so we took the chance to stay.  Initially, we were the only ones there and had the pick of sites. We elected to camp within the site, as far as possible from the Jardine River itself, mindful of the crocs; and us in a swag!  With some relief, several other groups joined us before nightfall, each staying closer to the river than where we were. ie. croc-food before they reached us!

Cooking dinner from the mini-kitchen at the rear of the Cruiser and swagging under our huge awning - it worked well, albeit the swag this time was on very rocky hard ground - no grass. We both accepted that the swag's mattress was NOT up to scratch on such rough, rocky ground. We're 500 k's from any store that could remediate the issue, so we accept it, both with sore hips the next morning.

We caught one of the first ferry crossings of the day north, giving the ferry driver the recommended packet of Tim Tams to reach the other side safely. It worked! Phew.

Running 2 days early!

We're now 2 days ahead of our original schedule and have nothing booked to cover it. So we headed from the Jardine River Ferry Crossing to Seisia (say-sha) to see if we could jag a cabin for 2 nights by the sea. No luck! They had loads of vacant cabins, but had run out of LPG in all bottles at every cabin. The new delivery was not expected anytime soon. Awesome! Cold showers or move on.

We checked out Loyalty Beach, just north of Seisia and it did not look inviting, especially having had a 15-strong indigenous pack ransack all camps, tents and cars the night before - stealing anything they could grab - mainly Go-Pro cameras, drones, wallets etc. Too much had been left unlocked, unsecured, easy for opportunistic thieving. So, still no spot for the night.

We called Punsand Bay to see if we could jag a cabin for 2 nights - in addition to the 3 already booked. Bingo! 

So we headed for Punsand - being the last place to stay before reaching the Tip - only around 15klm from the northern-most tip of mainland Australia. The red-dirt roads are not 4WD tracks as such, but are so corrugated that any other type of car is likely to end up a hessian bag full of disconnected parts The 4WD robustness is a MUST HAVE. Having said this, there are loads of seriously damaged 4WDs too - those that just can't handle the terrain. Toyotas (Hilux, Prado, Cruisers) and Patrols seems to fair very well - the others littered the road awaiting a flatbed tow truck likely to cost thousands to recover. Some - the chassis had snapped in half - eeek!

Off to Punsand Bay.  The road to Punsand started well - like a billiard table thanks to the amazing work of graders, rollers and bobcats. Anything they touch is just magic.  Beyond the refurb team's work, expect to lose all your fillings. Some have carved side tracks that run immediately parallel to the worst parts of corrugations, but these too become corrugated in time. There is no escape other than to lower speed to 10-20klm/hr and take it easy. Some rocketed past at full speed - clearly in government/company cars! 

Punsand Bay

This is an oasis in the desert! Not cheap, but considering the extreme remote location, it's justified. The place is gorgeous, well managed and the staff are amazing.  Our cabin overlooked the ocean just metres away, to be viewed whilst lying in bed. We had an ensuite (hot shower, toilet) and real beds. Luxury. It was very welcomed after the swag on rocks. We settled into Punsand, ready for the just a short drive to the northern-most tip of Australia. That's tomorrow!

The Roads

The dirt roads around Cape York are often very well maintained, beautifully graded, rolled and water tankers keeping the dust down. They do an amazing job with many sections like a billiard table. But they can't cover everything, so roads like Somerset Road are terrible. We had to slow to around 10k/hr to travel some parts, then stop to search for our fillings inside the car. Taking any ordinary car or sub-standard 4WD on these roads will surely end in tears.

The Top of Australia

To the northern most point of the Australian mainland, 1,000klm north of Cairns and the Pajinka Road to the top.

Bamaga & New Mapoon

We were staying at New Mapoon (between Bamaga and Seisia), and completed a short self-drive day trip to the WWII plane wrecks and fuel dumps near the current Bamaga airstrip. Being stationed here would not have been very comfortable. Wars aren't built for comfort though are they?

Seisia & Thursday Island

<to be completed>

Bramwell Station

Bramwell Station Tourist Park is a stop-over on an ex-cattle station now made into a lovely stop for those travelling Cape York. It is leased by a Brisbane Businessman (Ken Godfrey from Shailer Park). Ken has a history of Entertainment contacts and has organised many Community events raising funds for Variety Clubs and the like. It's well worth a stop and has many options for camping or cabin accommodation.  We recommend you pre-book the catered two course dinner and sing-a-long. It's a bloody cracker! Live entertainment every night and the meals are exceptional given the very remote location.

Palm Creek (OTT)

From Bramwell Station, we took some time off to go watch madness on the first section of the OLD TELEGRAPH TRACK, namely Palm Creek crossing. The crossing is just a few Klms in from the Bramwell Roadhouse. We happen to arrive as a convoy of around 8 families performed final muster and preparations at the back of the roadhouse, the start of The Track north.

Reaching Palm Creek first, these two buzzards (us) established prime viewing position, lying in wait for the expected carnage to come.  

Weipa

Leaving Bramwell Station, we headed south to Batavia Downs to pickup a track heading west to Weipa.